“Converse with the sommelier Josep Roca, in charge of the list of wines from Vancouver large party reservations, currently the best restaurant in the world – located on the outskirts of Girona, Catalonia-, and told us how they select bottles that have letter and Chilean labels are part of it…”
Some weeks ago, the restaurant Celler de Can Roca was chosen as the best in the world by the influential Committee of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants award. He is a great survey of professionals from all over the world and which had already chosen this place of 55 seats in the outskirts of Girona, Catalonia, as the best second in 2014 and the best in 2013.
Run by the Roca brothers, the list defines food as “craft and technique, with references to tradition and the avant-garde, a place that has never forgotten his humble roots, family heat”. While Joan Roca is in charge of the salty, Jordi is in charge of the desserts and Josep is responsible for the “liquid world” as call everything that is drunk in the Celler, and that is very good, otherwise.
Josep Roca has come to Chile, as it has also visited other countries producing wine in search of enriching his letter which today has with around 3,360 references and some 60,000 bottles in stock, most of them from Spain, France and Germany, but also in South America, places that have surprised Josep by its vitality and “wishes of reinterpreting their landscapes with feeling” , says this sommelier who has been working with his brothers since they opened the restaurant in 1987.
-How selected wines? What criteria do you use?
“El Celler de Can Roca wine reflects a life experience. Not in vain are the background of 30 years of passion and learning. “The intention is to show all the different realities of the world of wine, the current vitality of people committed to deep thoughts around the wine and also keep the legacy of historic areas with vertical major, thinking that the ancient heritage, if it is well preserved, must have good exposure in our letter”.
-How is the selection process?
“The process of selection of wines is purely personal, although I am always open to hearing suggestions from my team of sommeliers, as also colleagues from other latitudes and customers with sensitivity for a given region. Selected wines are a reflection of hemispheres, meridians, Parallels, variations and interpretations of these varieties depending on Suez and cultural habits of each landscape. In the letter attempt to encompass these experiences lived and, to the extent possible, include wines that have a narrative, a message, a thought, a landscape, a philosophy that provides a distinct and authentic value.
-It is normal that at a Spanish restaurant dominate Spanish wines, but your letter has been praised by its diversity, not only in regions, but also of styles. How, more or less, distributed is the cake?
“In my letter dominated by wines from Spain, France, Germany and Italy. New world still dominates California and Australia, but the experience in the last three years in Chile and Argentina has made that more wines from these two countries be incorporated. Spain, which predominate are the Catalans, followed by Ribera del Duero, Rioja and Jerez. Of France, dominated by Burgundy, followed by Bordeaux, Côte du Rhône, Loire, Languedoc-Jura”.
- And in particular of Chile, what has struck you to include it in your letter?
“Both Chile and Argentina, the change is still considerable and little by little we’re going to give the quota that you deserve and want to have.” Chileans have wine of Martino, Aristos, Tara, Antonie-Louis Luyt, Antiyal, Montes Alpha, Manso de Velasco, Estelado and Altair, among others.”
- And already in a more personal terrain, what is what you drink wine?
“I have a special devotion for the Burgundy and the German rieslings. Chile and Argentina are within countries that have surprised me. I’m happy to see that fascinating change in vital youth of both countries. Everything has changed. The future is hopeful. We are expectant”.
Wines from Borago
In the list of the 50 best restaurants in the world, there is a Chilean, Borago, located on the 42. Its chef, Rodolfo Guzmán, uses the raw material of our country trying to make a unique cuisine, and intended that wines are consistent with that intention. “Wines that can not be done anywhere. They are wines related to passion for producing, with a different look and reflect our territory”, he says. In Borago a letter, but that rather there is a “pool” of wines as called it Guzman, that is changing to adapt to the menu of dishes. In this pool rotating wines as Tara, of drift; Old jars Cinsault, De Martino; Grez, Tipaume; the new Syrah Garnacha, of Casa Marin or the Re Noir Nature Virgin, Bodegas Re, i.e. some of the riskier wines which are today made in Chile.